With a spirit as powerful as Ardbeg's, careful
cask selection is pretty much all you can do
to influence the end result that ends up being
bottled as Ardbeg. Of course, a heavily peated
spirit becomes drinkable faster than a lighter
spirit - well, according to peat freaks that is.
I wonder what would have happened if Mark
Reynier had bought Ardbeg when it became
available, like he originally planned. I guess
Mark is probably better off with Bruichladdich,
the other Islay distillery he bought instead.
The lighter style of the Bruichladdich malts
has allowed Mark and his team to experiment
a lot with the maturing spirit; both the older
stocks laid down by the previous ownders as
the stuff they distilled themselves since 2001.
Name:
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Ardbeg
(Pronounced: ard-BEG)
Islay (South shore)
Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Port Ellen
1815
Loch Arinambeast & Loch Uigedale
1 wash, 1 spirit
1.000.000 litres of pure alcohol per year
Moët Hennessy > Glenmorangie Plc. (since 1997)
Port Ellen, Isle of Islay, Argyll, PA42 7EB
www.ardbeg.com
The Ardbeg distillery lies on the South shore of
Islay,
close to the other 'Kildalton' distilleries (Lagavulin and
Laphroaig). This coastline is home to some of the scary
peat monsters that sometimes keep me up at night...
Ardbeg was officially established as early as 1815, but the
distillery probably pre-dates its 'commercial' (and legal) start
by a decade or two. In 1815 the MacDougall family started
production at the site and in 1886 almost a third of all the
townsfolk worked at the distillery. In those days the annual
production exceeded 300,000 US gallons. Not too shabby!
Ardbeg Distillery Profile
By the end of 2004 I had sampled around 50 different Ardbegs - almost all of them superb.
So, selecting just a few 'personal favourits' for this distillery profile wasn't easy.
The
Ardbeg 9yo 1991/2001
(46%, Murray McDavid, MM2999, 70cl) is my favourite amongst the pre-teen independent bottlings I've tried during my first decade of dramming. However, I should probably add that almost every other young IB (with the exception of some McGibbon's and Samaroli bottlings) scored above average.
Nose: Dusty. Dry. Light fruits. Menthol? Mint? Slightly oily. Not very expressive at first.
It smells a bit like the attic of an old grain warehouse. Sweaty socks later on. Organics.
Softly sweet. Strange aroma's for an Ardbeg. Over time, the nose grows more powerful.
Salt. Horse stable. Leather. Bandages? Yes! Still, I can't find a trace of peat in the nose.
Taste: Sourish and smooth start. Restrained, but it develops into a big dry burn.
Slightly gritty. More salt and sweet sensations after a while. Overall improvement.
Wow, this one really needs a few minutes! Some peat. A dry, deep burn and a salty finish.
Score: 87 points - it didn't seem 'Ardbeggish' at first, but then there was a sudden Islay explosion.
The Ardbeg 10yo 'TEN' (46%, OB, bottled +/- 1999, Non Chill-filtered, 70cl) was an early release.
Nose: Starts off rather light- especially at 46%. Sweet at first, followed by smoke and brine.
Needs a few minutes. Salt & ammoniac. Still, there's a constant sweetness in the background.
More iodine than peat, which gives it more of an 'extreme' Islay character than the 17yo.
Taste: A sweet burn picks some salt along the way before developing into a mild Ardbeg explosion.
Very well balanced - the overall profile becomes more 'Islay' after a few minutes in the glass.
Nice and sweet at first, with a long Ardbeg bang in the middle and a satisfying finish.
Score: 89 points
- but it definitely needs a while to reach it's full potential.
The Ardbeg 17yo
(40%, OB, bottled +/- 1997, code L7 338 4ML 11:40, 70cl) was one of the very first batches released in - or possibly shortly after - the year Glenmorangie took over control of the distillery.
Nose: One of the best bouquets I ever experienced. Hints of oak and salt. Brine.
Some peat, balanced with some sourness and an almost Speyside-like sweetness.
Complex; even more so after I added a few drops of water and it had some time to breathe.
Taste: Starts off quite soft, but after the trademark "delay" it fully reveals its Islay character.
Peppery finish. In the end, it showed the bitter finish I found in other Ardbegs as well.
This is one of the few malts that seems to improve in the months after opening the bottle.
Score: 92 points
- simply magnificent! Make sure to take your time with this one, though.
The Ardbeg 17yo
(40%, OB, bottled +/- 2000, code L9 303 4ML 03:13, 70cl) was a later release than the one I just mentioned, my best estimate would be the year 2000. It seemed notably less peaty to me.
Nose: Soft start. After some breathing it developed a broad, Speysidish sweetness.
Sweet & sour. Balanced and complex with a whole range of aroma's. Almonds?
Just a few drops caused a new nasal explosion - some oiliness or vegetables?
Taste: Starts out soft, but a wonderful gentle burn soon starts warming your mouth.
The Islay centre slowly dissolves into a bitter finish. Definitely highly recommendable!
Just like a blend of 40% Bowmore, 30% Laphroaig and 30% Bunnahabhain, I imagine.
Score: 89 points
- great, but I liked the slightly 'rougher' first batches a little better.
The
Ardbeg 25yo 'Lord of the Isles' (46%, OB, bottled in 2001, 70cl) was the very first bottle in Holland, brought to Amsterdam by Ardbeg's Stuart Thompson for a tasting session at De Still in November 2001.
The 'LotI' is a vatting of 15% sherry casks and 85% bourbon casks from 1974, '75 and '76.
Nose: Very rich, presenting a broad spectrum of fragrances. This is very good stuff!
Much more iodine than the other Ardbegs I've tasted - almost like a Laphroaig.
Taste: Very smoky! With a few drops of water it opens up. Sherry and liquorice.
Strangely enough, this somehow 'feels' like a vatting. Slightly short on substance.
Score: 90 points
- a very fine malt, but not worth the extravagant asking price, IMHO.
The last OB I'd like to mention is the first release of Ardbeg Uigeadail (54.2%, OB).
I first tried it in December 2003 with Krishna and Mark before they left for Alsace.
Nose: Deep and brooding, but not as powerful as I expected at first. Then it opens up.
Organics and swampy aroma's. Seems not quite as peaty as the 10yo and even the 17yo.
A hint of sweetness as well, but not as fruity as the 17yo. Really needs a few minutes.
With a dash of water the peat jumps to the foreground. More smoke and dust as well.
Taste: At C/S there's plenty of peat. Af a short 'delay' it becomes very salty and smoke.
There's a sour undercurrent as well, which slowly takes over and becomes dry and woody.
It's a bloody great dram, but I wouldn't score it as high on the palate as on the nose.
Score: 89 points for now, but if this bottle behaves anything like the other Ardbeg OB's I've tried it will improve with time, meaning it could easily
reach the lower 90's in due time. That being said, I don't quite think this is a match for the Laphroaig 10yo Cask Strength 'Green Stripe' that offers
incredible value at +/- 50 Euro's.
Official
bottlings of Ardbeg have been plentiful since the late 1990's, but for those who'd like to see even more variety the independent bottlers offer an extensive selection of single cask bottlings to choose from. I've selected three of my personal favourite independent Ardbegs for this distillery profile - all Douglas Laing bottlings.
You can find a complete overview of all independent bottlings I tried on my Track Record.
The
Ardbeg 25yo 1975/2000 (50%, Douglas Laing OMC, D 10/1975, B 10/2000, 702 Bottles) is the top scoring independent Ardbeg on my Hit List - and for once I can fully agree with Jim Murray who loves it as well.
Nose: Soft, almost grainy start, evolving into an odd combination of salt and sweet notes.
Then fruits, spices and salt emerge. Not peaty as some other old OMC's I've tried at first.
Slowly grows drier, peatier and more serious. Some faint medicinal elements pop up.
A slideshow of fragrances; white pepper, tobacco - then horse stable and old leather.
Taste: Peaty from the start, but balanced by a gentle sweetness. Dry prickle. Smoke.
Soft delayed explosion that seems to last forever. Great mouth feel. Medicinal.
Not the most complex palate I've ever tasted, but an Islay malt pur sang.
Doesn't really need water but it can stand a few drops. More salt, chalk and dust.
Score: 96 points - but give this one at least one hour or you'll miss a lot of fun!!!
The very best expression from the Ardbeg distillery I've tried so far. Great whisky!
The Ardbeg 29yo 1973/2002 (51.4%, Douglas Laing Platinum, 137 bottles) is
magnificent as well. And like so many other magnificent malts I've tried it was supplied by Serge Valentin - thanks, mon ami!
Nose: Fruity at first, growing peatier quickly. Subtle and complex organics. Grains.
Oh boy, I'm in peat heaven. It's no 'monster' though - it's surprisingly subtle. Rubber.
With 10 drops of water a whole new brigade of organics and veggy notes is unleashed.
Taste: Sweet and round at first; easily drinkable at this strength. Salt and pepper.
And then there's peat - lots of peat. What a great body - this is the Heidi Klum of malts.
Score: 95 points - it seems the Laings have done it again. What a whopper of a whisky!
Too bad I only had a sample, or I could have done a H2H with the 25yo on my Top Shelf.
The second best Ardbeg I've ever tried - a very impressive work of distillation art.
Last but not least: Ardbeg 24yo 1975/2000 (50%, Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask, 713 bottles). Check out my
Nose: Almost mellow at first, but you can sense the power beneath the surface. Yeast?
Quite clean and a little grainy. Light fruits, sourish notes and some subtle smoke at first.
Then the peat comes to the foreground, followed by leather, salt, brine and horse stable aroma's.
Rubber? Grain attick. Medicinal. With time more and more fragrances join the nasal orchestra.
Taste: Smashing. Absolutely wonderful combination of sweet and peat.
It develops into a salty center with hints of liquorice. Hugely entertaining.
Mellow peat, smoke and a long dry finish that seems to go on forever.
But there is sweetness too. Faint hints of iodine and liquorice in the finish.
The mouth-feel of this malt is simply amazing - perfectly drinkable at 50%!
Score: 94 points
- one of the few malts that makes it into the 90's primarily on taste.
This OMC bottling has lots of subtleties and finesse, without denying its Islay heritage.
Unfortunately, the success didn't last forever.
In 1983, less than a century later, the distillery closed.
Don't worry, though - to the relief of peat lovers around
the world, production resumed in 1989. The unfanned
maltings that gave pre-1989 distillates their unique
'espresso style' peatiness remained closed, though.
In 1990 Ardbeg joined Allied distillers - but not for long.
Glenmorangie bought the distillery in 1997. The purchase
and restoration of the distillery required over 10 million
British pounds but it turned out to be more than worth it.
Helped by clever marketing and solid performance Ardbeg
has made a major comeback - rightly so, if you ask me.
If I had to pick one single Islay distillery to supply me
with my peaty malts for the rest of my life it would very
probably be Ardbeg. Most 'deluxe' bottlings have 'deluxe'
price tags attached to them (even more so after Louis
Vuitton took over) but that's no reason for concern yet.
The 10yo and 17yo 'standard' official bottlings are very good and relatively modestly priced
.
Well, the 17yo is becoming rare these days - no wonder because Ardbeg, like many other distilleries, was silent
for a large part of the 1980's. During most of the 1990's Ardbeg was very hard to find apart from the odd Gordon & MacPhail bottling, but by the time the new owners had the Ardbeg distillery up and running again Ardbeg was becoming much more widely available, in the form of the new OB's but as independent bottlings as well.
One relatively new 'player' on the market that helped Ardbeg achieve the cult status it has today is Douglas Laing. When they turned their attention from blends to single malts they discovered that they were sitting on a gold mine of casks filled with Ardbeg from the 1970's. Especially the malts that were distilled in the early 1970's (before there was a change in production regime) were stunning! I have yet to taste an 'official' bottling that can match any of these old 'OMC's' released around the year 2000.
Trivia about Ardbeg: Official bottlings of Ardbeg released in the late 1990's were excellent without exception, but it seems that the quality has been slipping just a bit since the early noughties. After some other developments (steadily rising prices, the incredible 'Serendipity' story, the takeover by 'nouveau riche' company Louis Vuitton) this was the last drop that pushed Ardbeg from the #1 spot in my list of favourite distilleries recently.