|
|
'Bastard' Scotch Single Malt Whiskies |
A single malt Scotch whisky stimulates your nose, your tongue and your brain. Part of the fun of SMSWs lies in allowing lewd fantasies about a simpler, quieter life
in Scotland to take you away from your mundane existance, if only for a little while. The romantic image of an oldfashioned, traditional distillery hidden somewhere in the
Highlands or Lowlands of Scotland just gives the SMSW experience something extra. That's especially true if you know a thing or two about the distillery and its malts.
But there is another, more 'low brow' category of (allegedly) single malt whiskies where image and pedigree usually play a less prominent role; the 'bastard malts'.
That's the name I use for single malts that are released into the wide world by a 'mother' (i.e. bottler) who won't reveal who the 'father' (i.e. distillery) was.
Or even worse, a 'mother' who isn't sure who the 'father' actually was... These are the 'bastards' I've tried since 1997;47
Ardnave 10yo (40%, MoD, G&G, Bottled + 2000, Bruichladdich?) 43 Ben Wyvis 10yo (40%, MoD, G&G, Bottled + 2000, Tullibardine?) 85
Blackadder 'Peat Reek' (61.7%, Blackadder / Sun Favourite, Cask BA 10571) 87 Blackadder 'Peat Reek' (62.1%, Blackadder / Sun Favourite, Cask BA 10570)
85 Blackadder 'Smoking Islay'
(59.7%, Bl'adder for TSMWTA, Cask BA 2005/202) 89 Blairfindy 24yo 1980/2004 (55.9%, Blackadder for Sun Favourite, C#5984) 35 Cockburn 6yo (40%, Bottled 1990's, for Italy, Tamdhu?) 83 Dhun Bheagan 8yo
(43%, Maxwell, Canada, Johanna, Bottled + 2001, 75cl) 78
Finlaggan NAS 'Old Reserve' (40%, Vintage MWC, Bottled +/- 2000, 70cl) 84 Finlaggan NAS 'Old Reserve' (40%, Vintage MWC, Bottled +/- 2005, 70cl) 83
Fuaran Ile 1991/2000 (46%, Macleod, Germany, Bottled + 2001, Lagavulin?) 77 Glen Gordon 15yo (40%, G&M, 75cl, Bottled Mid 1980's, Macallan?)
59 Glentromie
(40%, Speyside Distillery, Released before their own product) 78 Ileach NAS (40%, Bottled + 1999, from Jim Dawe, Sweden, Laphroaig?) 71 Ileach NAS
(40%, Highlands & Islands SWCL, Bottled + 2001, 70cl) 68
Lochindaal 10yo (43%, Bottled + 2000, ADL, 'old' Bruichladdich) 76 Macleod's 8yo Island (40%, Bottled + 1999, Lagavulin?) 80 Speyside 1990/2005 'Armagnac Finish' (54.4%, Celtique Connexion) 75 Stronachie 12yo (43%, Bottled + 2003, actually a 'Replica', Benrinnes)
95 The Whisky That Cannot Be Named 1953/2003
(54.3%, Adelphi, C#1668) 75 Vintage Campbeltown 8yo
(40%, Bottled + 2000, Glen Scotia?) 80 Vintage Campbeltown 10yo (40%, Bottled + 2002, Glen Scotia?) 63 Vintage Highland 7yo (40%, Bottled + 2000, Longmorn?) 82 Vintage Islay NAS (40%, Bottled + 1994, 7yo Lagavulin?) 74 Vintage Islay NAS
(40%, Bottled + 1996, 5yo Bunnahabhain?) 78 Vintage Islay 5yo
(40%, Bottled + 2000, Lagavulin?) 81
Vintage Islay 5yo Cask Strength (58.4%, Bottled + 2000, Lagavulin?) 54 Vintage Mull 6yo (40%, Bottled +/- 2000, Ledaig?) 72 Vintage Orkney 7yo (40%, Bottled + 2000, Highland Park?) 76 Vintage Island Skye 8yo (40%, Bottled + 2000, 70cl, Talisker) 83 Vintage Island 8yo Cask Strength (57%, Bottled + 2001, Talisker?)
86 W&M House Malt Born on Islay 1993/2001
(43%, W&M, C#2779-2786) 84 W&M House Malt Born on Islay 1994/2003 (43%, W&M, C#1496-1502) 87 W&M House Malt Born on Islay 1995/2004
(43%, W&M, Cask #655-672) 82
W&M House Malt 'Born on Islay' 1997/2005 (43%, W&M, Cask #818-824) 86 ZDFbeg 1988/2005 (55.5%, Whiskykanzel, Bottled 04/2005, 500ml, Ardbeg) |
The bottles depicted above are two of the four malts in the very ineptly named 'Malts of Distinction (MoD) range of bastard malts that was introduced in Holland around the year 2001.
These malts are produced by Invergordon and sold by Gall & Gall here in Holland. Its almost impossible to get conclusive evidence about the background of a bastard malt, but I'm quite sure that the
'Ardnave 10yo' that was released just after the genuine Ardbeg 10yo has NOTHING to do whatsoever with the real thing. Given the involvement of Morrison Bowmore in recent batches of Ardnave
one would assume that it's Bowmore these days.
|
Scotch Vatted ('Blended') Malt Whiskies |
As I've explained in chapter two of the Beginner's Guide, there's one category of malt whiskies with an even lower 'social standing' than the bastard single malts.
These are the so-called 'vatted malts'; basically blends without any grain whisky. Vatted malts are the result of a 'mixed marriage' of two or more different single
malt whiskies, effectively 'unsingling' them. And as far as I'm concerned, that sort of defies part of the purpose of the enjoyment of malt whisky. I'm a sucker
for character and individuality, and that's not something you'll find in abundance in your average 'white label' vatted malt like Glen Sloy 5yo or Strathglen 12yo.
So, why did I buy so many bottles of these brands during the early 1990's? Because they were very affordable, that's why! Both went for + 15 Euro's.
That's just a few Euro's more than a bottle of Bell's or Johnnie Walker Red. A small price to pay for an alltogether more pleasurable experience. Here's a list of the vattings I 'seriously' tried since 1997;83
Big Smoke 1999/2005 '40' (40.1%, Duncan Taylor, Bottled 1/7/2005)
77 Big Smoke 1999/2005 '60'
(60.1%, Duncan Taylor, Bottled 22/6/2005) 43 Blairmhor 8yo
(40%, Bottled + 1996, 70cl) 83 Blue Hanger 25yo
(45.6%, Berry Bros, Glen Grant/Glenlivet vatting) 65 Burn of Speyside (43%, Van Wees, Bottled 2003, Glenfiddich & Balvenie) 81
Canongate Reserve 9yo Islay Malt (51.5%, Cadenhead's, Ardbeg & Caol Ila?) 72 Chivas Regal "100" Century of Malts (40%, Bottled + 1996, 70cl) 70 Chivas Regal "100" Century of Malts (40%, Bottled + 1998, 70cl)
77 Compass Box 'Eleuthera' (46%, K5073, Bottled +/- 2005)
84 Compass Box Juveniles
(44%, John Glaser for bar 'Juveniles' in Paris) 86 Compass Box Monster (54.9%, John Glaser, Ardmore & Caol Ila) 78 Compass Box 'The Peat Monster'
(46%, K5064, Bottled +/- 2005) 83 Compass Box 'The Spice Tree'
(46%, Inaugural Batch, 4150 Bottles, 2005) 62
Corriemhor NAS Cigar Reserve (40%, Whyte & Mackay, Bottled + 2001) 47 Famous Grouse 12yo 1989 Vintage Malt (43%, Bottled + 2001, 100cl) 51
Famous Grouse 'Vintage Malt Whisky' 1992/2004 (40%, Bottled 2004) 69 Glen Grant 10yo (40%, OB, Batch LM30391, Bottled + 2003, 70cl)
34 Glen Green 5yo (40%, Bottled + 1999, 70cl)
41 Glen Salen NAS (40%, Bottled + 1999, 70cl)
48 Glen Talloch 8yo 'Pure Malt' (40%, Bottled +
1996, Holland, 70cl) 61 Glen Turner 8yo Special Reserve
(40%, Bottled + 2001, France, 70cl) 89 Harrods Pure Highland Malt from Speyside 12yo (70° proof, G&M, 1960's) 68 Johnnie Walker 15yo Green Label (40%, Bottled + 2000, 70cl) 83 JM&R 'The Rich Spicy One'
(40%, John, Mark & Robbo, Bottled +/- 2005) 79
JM&R 'The Smoky Peaty One' (40%, John, Mark & Robbo, Bottled +/- 2005) 80 JM&R 'The Smooth Sweeter One' (40%, John, Mark & Robbo, Btl. +/- 2005) 38 MacAllister 8yo 'Pure Malt' (40%, Bottled + 1995, 70cl) 81
Samaroli No'Age Edition 2001 (45%, Samaroli, 1596 Bottles)
43 Sheep Dip 8yo (40%, Bottled + 2000, 70cl)
39 Strathglen 12yo (40%, Bottled + 1996, 70cl) |
Sheep Dip.
Not as much fun as it sounds.That being said, it's a bottle that brightens up any whisky collection and offers a nice conversation piece - certainly easier to swallow than Loch Dhu.
|
Scotch Single Grain Whiskies |
I used to think grain whiskies were an 'inferior' type of whisky. After all, many of the cheap blends I disliked so much contained grain whisky
and an encounter with the standard Invergordon single grain bottling in the early 1990's was nothing short of disastrous. Well, in recent years I've discovered that
grain whiskies are nothing to be scoffed at. Provided they are poured into a proper cask and given enough time to mature, grain whiskies can easily match single malts
in depth and complexity. That's further proof for my growing suspicion that the type of wood and the duration of the maturation could be even more important in the
development of a whisky than any influences that might play a role before and during the distillation phase of the process. Grain whisky is made from a mash of
malted and unmalted grains (usually barley, wheat and maize) and distilled in a 'continuous' Coffey still, so the production process is fundamentally different
from that of the single malt whiskies distilled in pot stills. Despite all these differences I've discovered that everything a grain whisky really needs is some time (preferably at least two decades) in a proper cask.
So far, I've only 'seriously' tried these single grain whiskies;85 Alloa Grain 40yo 1964/2004 (42,3%, Jack Wiebers WW, 114 Bottles) 31 BlackBarrel NAS (40%, William Grant & Sons, Bottled + 1995) 84 Cameronbridge 1979/2005
(59.9%, Duncan Taylor, DTC-5/013, B. 8/3/05) 86
Carsebridge 25yo 1979/2005 (56.4%, Ducan Taylor, Cask #32901, 154 Btl.) 23 Dumbarton 1961/1990 (46%, Signatory Vintage, Casks 10277-10280) 85 Garnheath 21yo 1969/1990 (47%, The Rarity Hunters, Humbrecht, 75cl) 74 Girvan 1989/2004 (60.4%, James McArthur, C# 110636) 72 Greenore 8yo (40%, Irish single grain whiskey, Cooley, Bottled + 2004) 91 Invergordon 36yo 1965/2002 (51.8%, Peerless, FF Bourbon C#15539)
89 Invergordon 38yo 1965/2004
(51.6%, Peerless, Cask #15537, 254 bottles) 90 Invergordon 1964/2005 (47.1%, Adelphi, Cask #57637) 82 North British 18yo 1979/1997 (43%, Signatory Vintage) 64 North British 21yo ????/2000 (57.8%, Cadenhead's, Bourbon Hogsh., 228 Btl.) 77 North British 1978/2005
(55.1%, Duncan Taylor, DTC-5/015, Bottled 6/4/05) 40
Port Dundas 10yo (60.2%, Cadenhead's Authentic Collection, 318 Bottles) 89 Port Dundas 1973/2005 (59.3%, Duncan Taylor, DTC-5/0044-45, B. 6/4/05)
Well, that's as far as Scotland and Ireland are concerned. I've had the pleasure of sampling a few grain whiskies from other countries as well. The 'Glenroc' grain whisky was distilled by the Milibreiz distillery in Brittany,
France.
You probably won't find that particular bottling anywhere these days because the Scottish whisky industry won a legal argument regarding the name. Later releases
of this French whisky were bottled under the name 'Gwenroc'. Another grain whisky from France is the 'Whisky De Bretagne'. Both managed to get scores in the 50's.
The Forty Creek '3 Grains' whisky comes from the Kittling Ridge Distillery in Canada.
I'm not sure if this qualifies as a 'single' grain whisky or as a 'vatted' grain whisky. It's a vatting of 3 different types of grain whisky; malted barley, rye and maize. |
BlackBarrel.
Nothing like Black Bottle. Maybe the exact opposite, in fact: devoid of charatcer.There are some maginificent older grain whiskies available, but you won't find those on the
shelves of your average local supermarket. You'll have to browser around at specialist retailers to get your hands on the really good stuff.
|
Scotch Blended Whiskies |
The overview of blends below only shows the blends I've 'seriously' sampled.
I didn't keep any notes on the blends I sampled in the 1980's and early 1990's. The only thing I remember about blends like Angus McKay and Bailie Nicol Jarvie
is that I didn't particulary like them. Here are all the blends I have notes on:84 Ambassador 25yo (43%, Pedro Domecq, Taylor & Fergusson, Bottled 1970's 19 Ballantine's NAS
(40%, Bottled + 1991, 70cl) 38
Ballantine's 12yo Special Reserve (40%, Bottled + 2003) 83 Ben Nevis 34yo 1970/2005 'Single Blend' (50.3%, Adelphi, Cask #4640) 04 Big Blend (40%, Bottled + 1993, 100cl) 72 Black Bottle 10yo (40%, Bottled + 1996, 70cl) 65 Black Bottle 10yo (40%, Bottled + 1998, 70cl) 71 Black Bottle 10yo (40%, Bottled + 2000, 70cl) 68 Black Bottle 10yo (40%, Bottled + 2002, 70cl) 39 Cameron Brig NAS (40%, Bottled +/- 2002, Cameronbridge Distillery) 59
Chivas Regal 18yo (40%, Code FP6512N, Bottled +/- 2003) 80
Chivas Regal 'Royal Salute' (40%, Ceramic, Bottled + 1995)
06 The Claymore (40%, Bottled + 1992, 70cl)
21 Cutty Sark NAS (40%, Berry Brothers, Bottled +/- 2001)
36 Cutty Sark 12yo (40%, Bottled + 2000) 40
Dimple (40%, Bottled + 1994, 70cl) 77 Dewar's 12yo 'Ancestor' (40%, Bottled 1980's) 66 Dewar's 12yo Special Reserve (43%, Bottled + 2003, 5cl) 39
Famous Grouse 12yo Gold Reserve (40%, Bottled +/- 2003) 49
Famous Grouse Islay Cask Reserve (40%, Bottled +/- 2003) 88
Glen Brora NAS (40%, Carradale Company, 75cl, Bottled early 70's)
23 Glen Talloch NAS (40%, Bottled + 1991, 100cl)
09 Gold Label Old Whisky (40%, Bottled +
1994, 70cl) 27 Grant's NAS (40%, Bottled +
1990, 100cl) 47 Grant's NAS 'Ale Cask'
(40%, Bottled +/- 2003) 24 House of Lords 12yo
(40%, Bottled + 1990, 75cl) 59 Isle of Skye 8yo
(40%, Ian MacLeod, Bottled + 2000, 70cl) 58 Isle of Skye 12yo (40%, Ian MacLeod, Bottled + 2001, 70cl) 85 John Scott's 35yo Superior Blended'
(43%, Duncan Taylor, 675 Bottles) 20
Johnnie Walker Red Label (40%, Bottled + 1994, 100cl) 60 Johnnie Walker Black Label (40%, Bottled + 1995, 70cl) 60 Johnnie Walker Gold Label (40%, Bottled + 2003) 75 Johnnie Walker Blue Label (40%, Bottled + 1997, 70cl) 08 King Robert II Scotch (40%, Bottled + 1992, 70cl) 50
Lochranza (40%, Bottled + 2000, Isle of Arran Distilley, 70cl)
13 MacArthurs's Best Blend (40%, Bottled 1980's, 70cl)
32 Mac Lean Blended Scotch Whisky (40%, 70cl, Bottled +/- 2005)
61 Mac NaMara NAS (40%, Bottled + 2001, 70cl)
10 Mansion House (40%, Bottled + 1990, 70cl)
58 Mitchell's 12yo (43%, Bottled + 2001, 70cl)
26 Old Cricket NAS Original Whisky (40%, Bottled +
2001, Italy) 75 Old Mull NAS
(40%, John Hopkins & Co, Essivi Import, Bottled 1960's, 75cl) 15 Old Smuggler's (40%, Bottled + 1993, 70cl) 80 Original Mackinlay 21yo (43%, Bottled + 1990, 75cl) 31 Pinwinnie NAS 'Royale' (40%, OB, Bottled +/- 2000) 45 Poit Dhub NAS (43%, Bottled +/- 2001, 70cl) 14 Red Tartan Whisky (40%, Bottled + 1991, 70cl) 50 Teacher's NAS Highland Cream (40%, Bottled + 1994, 70cl) 56 Teacher's '60' Reserve Stock
(40%, Bottled + 1995, 60% malt whiskies) 67 Teacher's 12yo 'Royal Highland'
(43%, Bottled early 1990's, 100cl) 49 Te Bheag NAS
(40%, Bottled + 1998, 70cl) 39 Vat 69 (40%, Bottled + 1993, 70cl) 08 Wardlo Whisky (40%, Bottled + 1996, 70cl) 31 William Lawson's (40%, Bottled + 1992, 70cl) 26 YB 'Why Be' (40%, Bottled + 1998, 70cl) 51 Ye Monks (43%, Bottled +/- 2000, 75cl,) |
The picture above shows two of my old time favourits. Teachers 12yo Royal Highland and Original Mackinlay 21yo seem to have disappeared from the shelves in Holland. That's too bad if you ask me.
I don't often find a blend that I really like.That being said, over the years I've started to look at the work of blenders with considerably more respect. By their very nature, blended
and 'vatted' whiskies can be very different in different years. After all, blending isn't an exact science. Blenders have to combine twenty or more different whiskies to produce a uniform product year
after year. That's no easy task. It's quite amazing they get it right as often as they do. However, never forget that there's a good chance your bottle of Famous Grouse or Grant's could be very
different from mine. Character and individuality are very important to me, at least where whisky is concerned. That is why even excellent blends like Chivas Regal Royal Salute
and Original Maclinlay 21yo barely meet the 80 points 'great' benchmark. Single malts simply have more personality and character than blends. And I guess I just don't like the smell and taste of grain whisky.
(Well, the young stuff.) That being said, my research so far indicates that blends used to have much more character a few decades ago. So, if you have a bottle from the 50's, 60's or 70's
it could just be a stunner!
|
World Whiskies: Australia |
It seems the British empire left at least one lasting legacy in 'the colonies'
after its collapse: whisky. The old debate about who actually invented whisky (the Irish or the Scots) still rages, but if we conveniently label both as 'British' we can safely say that the British spread the gospel of whisky around the world.
These days, whisky is produced in Australia, Canada, India, New Zealand and the United States - all former colonies of the British empire. But just like some other
legacies of British imperialism (the English language for example), whisky from the former colonies often 'feels' very different from the stuff we know as 'Scotch'. And 'different' isn't neccessarily a bad thing, mind you...
There must have been quite a few Scotsmen convicted for illegal distillation on the boats to Australia, because the Aussie whiskies I've tried weren't bad at all.
Well, at least not compared to the average middle class blend from Scotland or Ireland that's available these days. Most of the Australian whiskies I've tried so
far scored in the 60's, putting them a tad below the 'average' Scotch single malt. That being said, please note that I'll choose a Great Outback, Sullivan's Cove or Lark over a Loch Lomond or Drumguish any day of the week.
It seems interesting things are happening down under... Here are the Australian whiskies I've tried so far; 67 Great Outback 15yo
(40%, Cawsey Menck) 67
Lark Single Cask February 2002, Release #4 (40%, Tasmania) 74
Sullivans Cove NAS Australian Premium Single Malt Whisky (40%, OB) 69 Sullivan's Cove 2yo (40%, OB, Tasmania) |
|
World Whiskies: Canada |
In the early 1990's I tried just one Canadian whisky (the Canadian Club) and to
tell you the truth that was quite enough to last me for the rest of the decade. But somewhere around 2000 fellow malt maniac Davin
insisted on re-introducing me to Canadian whiskies and this time I was slightly less underwhelmed. I still had
a mild allergic reaction to the 'grainy' character of the Gooderham & Worts (blend of rye whisky & bourbon) but over time I learned to like the Lot 40 quite a bit.
The Forty Creek '3 Grains' (blend of grain whiskies from Kittling Ridge Distillery) that Davin brought to Scotland in 2003 helped to further convince me that I really should pay some attention to what's happening in Canada.
These are the Canadian whiskies I've tried so far;19 - Canadian Club
(40%, Bottled early 1990's) 66 - Forty Creek '3 Grains' (40%, Bottled
+ 2003, Kittling Ridge Distillery) 37 - Gooderham & Worts (45%, Bottled
+ 2000, 5cl) 50 - Lot 40 (43%, Rye Whisky, Bottled + 2000, 5cl)
43 - Pike Creek Double Barreled (40%, Bottled +
2000, miniature from Davin) |
|
World Whiskies: France |
The 'national' drink of France is obviously wine, but they produce a wide variety
of other alcoholic beverages there as well; cognag, armagnac, pastis, marc and a huge number of liqueurs - to name just a few. You'd think that our chauvinistic
French friends would be content with taking their pick from this wealth of local brews, but Scotch whisky is actually the biggest selling 'strong liquor' in France.
Better yet, some Frenchmen have even taken it upon themselves to challenge the Scots by trying to distill their own whisky - or 'improving' a Scotch whisky
by finishing it in a wine cask. As sacrilegious as that sounds, they have been doing the very same in Scotland for years - so, I guess we'll have to consider
that a 'standard procedure' in whisky production. That being said, I'm not sure if the 'Speyside' malt whisky finished in a Sauternes cask by Celtique Connexion
actually qualifies as a 'French' whisky - I might have put it under 'bastard malts' just as well. So far the most surprising and enjoyable 100% French whisky I've
tried was the Eddu 'Silver'; a whisky distilled from buckwheat instead of barley. Very interesting, to say the least - almost made it into the 'recommendable' are on my Hit List. So far I've tried only five more-or-less French whiskies;15 Couvreur Jura Vin Jaune 3yo (51%, Michel Couvreur) 78 Eddu 'Silver' (40%, Buckwheat, Distillerie des Menhirs, Brittany) 57 Glenroc NAS (40%, Grain whisky, Milibreiz distillery, Brittany) 75
Speyside 13yo 1989/2002 (43%, Celtique Connexion, Bourbon / Sauternes)
54 Whisky de Bretagne NAS (41%, OB, Grain whisky)
|
|
World Whiskies: Germany |
If wine is the national drink of France, beer has to be Germany's drink of choice.
There's a long local tradition of other alcoholic beverages as well, but apart from 'Asbach Uralt' and 'Jägermeister' few German distillates are well known worldwide.
That might be just as well, because judging by most German whiskies I've tried they still have a lot to learn about distilling a decent whisky. There's one fairly
glorious exception, though: the Slyrs from Bavaria. Don't let the 'questionable' score of 66 points mislead you - it performs very well for a 3 years old.43 Blaue Maus 1993/2001 (40%, Blaue Maus Destillerie, sample from Lex K.) 38 Piraten Whisky 1986/1994 (40%, Blaue Maus Destillerie, sample from Lex K.)
66 Slyrs 3yo 1999/2002
(43%, Bavaria, Sample from Klaus Everding) 40 Sonnenschein 1989/2000 (43%, Privatbrennerei Sonnenschein, from Lex K.) 45 Spinnaker 1993/2001
(40%, Blaue Maus Destillerie, sample from Lex K.) |
|
World Whiskies: Holland |
Beyond the edge of the whisky world we find something that's not really whisky
at all, but it's the closest thing to a Dutch whisky I've ever tried so I've included it here. I'm talking about the infamous 'Distilled Old Maltky' a disgusting 'blend' of
Scotch whisky & 'neutral Dutch spirit'. I tried it in the early 1990's and the only good thing I can say about it is that it provided me with a solid foundation for my rating system: one measly point - the worst 'whisky' I've tried in my life.
If I had to choose (and my life depended on it) I'd go for Loch Dhu instead. I don't have a picture of the bottle because I destroyed the evidence as soon as I emptied it. (Yes, I emptied the bottle - I'm Dutch, remember?)
As the picture at the right proved the DOM isn't the only 'whisky' that was ever produced in Holland, though. I'll keep my eyes open - very wide. If I can't find another Dutch whisky I'll have to buy myself a new bottle of
DOM some day to verify my score from more than a decade ago...10 Distilled Old Maltky (35%, blend of Scotch whisky & 'neutral spirit') |
|
World Whiskies: India |
I know this observation isn't exactly statistically sound, but based on my own
research so far the Indians are exactly 55 times better at distilling whisky than the Dutch. Further research will probably force me to revise these numbers a bit,
but at the moment the only Indian single malt I have ever tried managed to earn itself a spot on the good side of the 50 points mark. The Dutch entry didn't.
My own experience with Indian whiskies is very limited, but if you want to get some interesting local perspectives, check out E-pistles
03/08 and 04/05 by Indian malt maniac Krishna Nukala
. He has some genuine horror stories to tell. I will report further on Indian whiskies once my studies take me there. So far I've only sampled these expressions; 55 MacDowell NAS Single Malt (42.8%, OB, Sampled in Scotland 2003) 54 Sikkim Old Gold Single Malt (40%, OB, Sample from Serge Valentin)
I hope to be able to sample the new 'Amrut' single malt whisky soon. |
|
World Whiskies: Ireland |
Well, Ireland is without a doubt the 'whiskiest' country on this page. For one thing, the've invented their own spelling for whisky: whiskey.
The Irish whiskey tradition reaches back at least as far (if not farther) as Scotland's, although Ireland still doesn't offer the variety of whiskies available
in Scotland. That makes it a less challenging destination for single malt freaks, especially those who realise that everything comes from only three distilleries.
The number of brands has been growing steadily over the last few years, but all Irish whiskeys are produced by just three distilleries; Bushmills (purchased
by Diageo in 2005), Midleton (part of Irish Distillers, owned by Pernod Ricard since 1988) and Cooley. Brands like Jameson, Green Spot, Powers, Redbreast
and Tullamore Dew are all produced at the Midleton distillery, while Bushmills focuses mainly on its main brand (erm... being Bushmills) besides the occasional oddity like 'Coleraine'. Cooley is the last remaining independent distillery in Ireland.
It produces (among other things) Connemara, Kilbeggan, Locke's and Tyrconnell. That being said, there's plenty of 'simple pleasures' to be found in Irish whiskey. I happen to have a particular fondness for the Connemara, a
peated Irish single
malt whiskey. Especially the cask strength variety is a treat. If you ask me it beats an Islay icon like the 'Bowmore Cask Strength' with a stick. These are the Irish whiskeys I've tried so far;49 Bushmills Malt 10yo (40%, Bottled + 1995, 70cl) 55 Bushmills Malt 16yo (40%, Bottled + 2001, 70cl) 35 Clonmel 8yo 'Unpeated' Single Irish (40%, Bttl. + 2001, Celtique Connection)
34 Clontarf NAS (40%, Bttl. +
2000, Black Label, Batch L1 001 033/CSMLF700) 49 Clontarf NAS Reserve (40%, Bottled + 2000, Gold Label, 20cl) 56 Clontarf NAS Single Malt
(40%, Bottled + 2000, White Label, 70cl) 78 Connemara NAS
(40%, Bottled + 1998, Batch L0143, 70cl) 76 Connemara NAS
(40%, Bottled + 2000, Batch L1099, from Klaus, 70cl) 76
Connemara NAS (40%, Bottled + 2000, Batch Unknown, 70cl) 78 Connemara NAS (40%, Bottled + 2001, Batch L1133, 70cl) 77 Connemara NAS (40%, Bottled + 2003, Batch L2177, 70vl) 82
Connemara NAS Cask Strength (59%, Bottled + 2001, Tall bottle, 70cl) 82 Connemara NAS Cask Strength (60%, Bottled + 2004, Dumpy bottle, 70cl)
81 Connemara 12yo (40%, Bottled + 2004, 70cl)
77 Cooley 10yo Irish Peated Malt
(59.8%, Cadenhead's WW, Bottled 02/2003) 84 Cooley 12yo Irish Peated Malt (60%, Cadenhead's WW, Bottled 04/2004) 72 Greenore 8yo (40%, Single grain whiskey, Bottled +/- 2004) 79 Green Spot NAS (43%, OB, Bottled +/- 2000) 51 Jameson NAS (40%, Bottled + 2000, 70cl) 47 Jameson NAS 'Crested Ten' (40%, Bottled +/- 2002, 70cl) 56 Jameson 12yo '1780' (40%, Bottled + 1995, 70cl) 76 Jameson 18yo (40%, Bottled + 2003) 73 Locke's NAS Single Malt (40%, Bottled + 1999, L00241OB, 70cl) 56 Locke's 8yo Single Malt
(40%, Bottled + 2001, 70cl) 81 Midleton NAS 'Very Rare'
(40%, Bottled 1996) 47 Millar's NAS Special Reserve
(40%, Bottled + 1999, 70cl) 52 Millars NAS Special Reserve
(40%, Bottled + 2001, 70cl) 49
Paddy NAS Old Irish Whiskey (40%, Bottled + 1998, 70cl) 43 Powers NAS 'Gold Label' (40%, Bottled +/- 2001, 70cl) 62 Tullamore Dew NAS (40%, Bottled + 1992, 70cl) 52 Tullamore Dew NAS (40%, Bottled + 1994, 70cl) 50 Tullamore Dew NAS (40%, Bottled + 1996, 70cl) 75 Tyrconnell NAS Single Malt (40%, Bottled + 1999, L91391464, Belgium, 70cl) 73 Tyrconnell NAS Single Malt (40%, Bottled + 2004) |
|
World Whiskies: Japan |
Many Asian countries produce some kind of local 'whisky', but I imagine none
of them are as serious about it as the Japanese. Single malts from Scotland are extremely popular in Japan, but the local stuff is nothing to be sniffed at either.
One of the largest whisky producers in Japan is Suntory. It was founded in 1923 by Shinjiro Torii who built the first distillery in the 'Yamazaki' valley near Kyoto.
In 1973 Suntory opened the Hakushu distillery, followed by the Hakushu-Higashi distillery in 1981. Most of the Japanese whiskies I've tried were from Suntory.
I haven't tried a single malt from Japan yet, but Suntory's 'Kakubin' and 'Hibiki' blends beat the Johnnie Walker Black Label in my book - along with quite a few other 'premium' Scotch blends. And their 'Yamazaki' vatted malt beats all Scotch
vattings I've tried so far, with the exception of some Compass Box whiskies. Another one of the 'big names' in Japanese whisky is Nikka, established in 1934.
Their 'White' vatted malt is rumoured to contain Caol Ila, so I guess it's not a 'purely' japanese whisky. No matter, it's highly enjoyable just the same.80 Nikka NAS Pure Malt 'White' (43%, Vatted malt, Bottled + 2002) 80 Nikka 10yo (63%, OB, Cask OJE30C) 88 Nikka 12yo 'Yoichi' (64.8%, Cask #129484, Warehouse #8) 69 Suntory NAS 'Hibiki' (43%, Blend, Bottled + 1995, 70cl) 63
Suntory NAS 'Kakubin' (40%, Blend, Bottled + 1999, 70cl) 77 Suntory 12yo 'Yamazaki' (43%, Vatted malt, Bottled + 2000, Italy, 70cl)
76 Suntory 12yo 'Yamazaki'
(43%, Vatted malt, Bottled + 2004, Taiwan) |
|
World Whiskies: New Zealand |
New Zealand used to have its own distillery; Wilson's Distillery in Dunedin.
It was established in 1968 but dismantled again just three decades later in 2000. The distillery may have gone under the name 'Willowbank' for some time as well,
and the whisky is usually bottled under the name 'Lammerlaw' - but there have also been more recent bottlings under the name 'Milford'. Confusing, isn't it?
Anyway, New Zealand barley and a traditional pot still were used to produce this whisky of fairly consistent quality - generally on par with its
Australian cousins.69 Lammerlaw 10yo (43%, OB, Wilson's Distillery, Bottled + 1998) 74 Lammerlaw 10yo
(48.2%, Cadenhead's, Bourbon, Bottled 2003, 240 Bottles) 65
Lammerlaw 12yo Cask Strength (50.5%, Meenan's Sherry cask, New Zealand) 67 Milford 10yo (43%, Sampled at 2002 Den Haag Whiskyfestival) 61 Milford 12yo 1990 (43%, Sample from Lex Kraaijeveld) |
|
World Whiskies: Poland |
So far I've sampled just two Polish whiskies; the Old Family Whisky NAS (40%)
from the Zielona Góra distillery and the 'Dark Whisky' that was distilled, blended and bottled by L.W.W.G. Polmos S.A., Zielonej Górze. I have to admit I was
feeling a little bit apprehensive about it at first because of an earlier, rather traumatic encounter with a Polish wodka in Antwerp in the late 1980's. I don't remember the name but I'll never forget the taste...
As it turned out, I had very little to worry about, I just disliked the fairly imaginatively monikered 'Dark Whisky' a very little bit. It didn't perform quite
well enough to end up in 'enjoyable' territory but it came close with 49 points. This Polish whisky somehow appeared 'Japanese' to me; I got impressions of
sake and rice crackers. I don't know what the street price is, but I imagine that the Bang-For-Your-Buck value compared some standard Scottish blends is pretty good. Blends like Ballantine's and VAT 69 don't reach 49 points...
49 Dark Whisky NAS (40%, Blend, L.W.W.G. Polmos S.A)
48 Old Family Whisky NAS (40%, Blend, Zielona Góra distillery)
|
|
World Whiskies: Switzerland |
Yes, even the conservative Swiss have started to produce whisky. It's imaginatively titled 'Swissky' and it is produced (since 2002) in Baar.
To my knowledge it's the only whisky produced in Switserland, apart from a 'bio whisky' produced at 'Die Holle' in Lauwil, Baselbiet that I haven't tried.
And based on my experiences with the Swissky I'm not in any hurry to do so. My tasting notes show that the Swiss whisky shows many traits not often
found in 'proper' whiskies. It has an odd fruitiness with sour grapes or vinegar in the back of the nose. At times it reminded me of grappa - and that usually
isn't a good thing. The taste was quite disappointing as well: a very flat and tired start, like old lukewarm beer. Watery. Once again I found many things that reminded me of wine or Belgian fruit beer.37
Swissky NAS Single Malt (42%, OB) |
|
World Whiskies: Turkey |
The Ankara malt whisky from Turkey must have been one of the first 'exotic'
whiskies that has earned universal praise from all the malt maniacs that tried it. I think Davin was the first one to discover it during one of his business trips.
Soon Serge started to sing the praise of Ankara as well, so you'll understand why I was quite thrilled when I finally got to sample it in Novermber 2002.
And let me tell you that I wasn't disappointed. The Ankara isn't a very old whisky (I've heard guesses that it's a 5yo), but it shows amazing complexity
in the nose. I found malt, grains, fruits, liquorice all sorts, candy cane, nuts and coconut. The taste wasn't quite as complex, weet and bitter (mocha?) with a pleasant peppery burn. Not a lot of depth, but very entertaining.
The score of 69 points may not seem all that impressive, until you learn that a bottle of Ankara can be yours for as little as five measly Euro's. That's what I call 'Bang-For-Your-Buck'.69
Ankara NAS Malt Viski (43%, Tekel, Turkey) |
|
World Whiskies: U.S.A. |
I don't have a clue why I consumed so many bottles of bourbon in the 1980's,
considering that I really didn't like bourbon that much - especially the bottom shelf brands I could afford; Four Roses (26 points) and Jim Beam (37 points).
I liked the bourbons I tried later on in life a little better, but none of them managed to break the 50 points barrier. That effectively means that until
this day I haven't found a bourbon I liked. Fortunately, the honour of the USA is saved by a malt whisky produced in California: St. George Lot 3. That one actually beats a few single malts from Scotland.
So far I've tried these American distillates;47 George Dickel Superior No. 12 Brand (43%, Tennessee, Bourbon, 100cl) 41 Jack Daniels Old No. 7 (40%, Bottled +/- 1999, Bourbon, 70cl) 48 Maker's Mark NAS (45%, Batch 7/28/94, Bourbon, 5cl) 45 McCormick Platte Valley Corn Whiskey
40%, Bottled +/- 2000, 75cl) 45
Old Crow Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (40%, Bottled +/- 1999, 70cl) 67 St. George Lot 3 (43%, OB, Malt whiskey, California, from Lex Kraaijeveld) |
|
World Whiskies: Wales |
On 11/11/2004 I sampled my very first Welsh whisky: Penderyn. I received the sample from fellow malt maniac
Lex Kraaijeveld who has a keen interest in 'world whiskies'. Given the fact that the whisky was just three years
old and it was their first try, I'd say the results are vey encouraging indeed. Granted, they used a madeira finish to give the whisky a boost, but if you
consider that some Scotch single malts that have been aged for ten or twelve years received scores below Penderyn's 64 points it seems the Welsh have nothing to be ashamed about. Let's hope they increase production and show
the same steep 'learning curve' that we've seen at Arran in Scotland.64 -
Penderyn NAS Madeira Finish (46%, Wales) (You can find more info at www.welsh-whisky.co.uk) |
|
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |
A few whiskies I tried on 11/11/2004 will be added to the 'proper' list in the forseeable future:74 - Three Ships 10yo (40%, South Africa) 15 - Aleksandrs (40%, Latvia) 21 - LB (40%, Latvia)
35 - Flat Country (40%, Hungary) 12 - Jack & Jill (40%, Slovenia) 39 - Gold Cock 12yo (43%, Czechoslowakia) 45 - King Barley 6yo (43%, Czechoslowakia) 49 - Printer's (40%, Czechoslowakia)
As you may have noticed, there are also some blank spots in the list. I'll concentrate my efforts on filling these out before I get to work on the second part of this page, dealing with a number of other alcoholic beverages like
cognac, armagnac, calvados and rum. Before a comprehensive overview is published in this site section individual tasting reports focusing on specific beverages will be published in my Liquid Log. Serge Valentin's weblog on Whiskyfun frequently deals with other beverages as well. Copyright 1997 - 2006 Johannes van den Heuvel
Malt Madness is hosted by the friendly people at
The Whisky Exchange
|