Patrick Whaley

Minnesota, U.S.A.

Patrick is our youngest correspondent. For his second report, he managed to land an interview with Mr. Derek M. Gilchrist, Marketing Director at Morrison Bowmore.
See Patrick's
factsheet for details.

2000

Subject: E-Report #8 - Last 2001 E-Report
Date: Sat, December 29 2001

            The Sale, The Holidays, The Warning, The Tasting Notes

            The big sale hit my favorite liquorist and I was there the first night.  They had a tasting and I did a little sampling.  I tried A'bunadh, Balvenie Islay Cask, and Glenfiddich 15yo Solera.  The A'bunadh was very good, I can't wait to open a bottle. Johannes didn't have very high remarks for the Islay Cask but I was rather surprised.  Only time will tell when I get to spend more time with the Islay Cask.  I was also surprised by the Glenfiddich 15yo, it was quite pleasant.

            I couldn't believe how many people showed up the night of the sale.  The single malt area was packed, I 've never seen it like that before.  It was so crowded that you constantly kept bumping shoulders with people.  I saw people filling their carts with single malts and I had to laugh, I thought that I was the only one in that did that.  Bottles were flying off the shelves.  The Laphroaigs were selling good, Lagavulin even better.  Talisker sold very well as did the Mac 18yo.  Every Aberlour product they had (A'bunadh, 10yo, 15yo, and 21yo) was selling very well also.  Another big seller was Glenmorangie Sherry Wood Finish.  People seemed to be eating up the Balvenie 10yo and 12yo, but I suppose that it is understandable since they were tasting both of those that night.  The biggest was the best seller of the night, Glendronach 15yo.  I couldn't! believe how fast this stuff was flying off the shelves.  They must have sold two cases in a little over an hour.  Here is what I picked up that night:

            Glenmorangie Sherry Wood Finish
            Glenmorangie Madeira Wood Finish
            Glenmorangie 10yo
            Glenfiddich 15yo
            Glendronach 15yo
            Aberlour 15yo
            Aberlour 21yo
            Macallan 18yo 1983
            Highland Park 12yo
            Laphroaig 15yo
            Knockando 12yo 1988
            Springbank 21yo
            Balvenie 21yo Port Wood Finish

            Some side notes: The HP 12yo came in a new package, the box, as well as the bottle was square.  I didn't intend on getting another bottle of Springbank 21yo, I figured that they would be there for awhile.  When I arrived I saw that they had four bottles left.  Sometime during the evening I noticed that there was only one left so I grabbed it.  I figured why not since they are not producing anymore for a number of years.  Much to my amazement, they were able to get more.  I'm glad I bought that bottle because there was a little price gouging.  Normally, the Springer 21yo sells for $99.99, $79.99 when it is on sale.  Now the regular price is $159.99 and the sale price is $119.99.  I picked up the Balvenie Port Wood because it was too good to pass up, it was either $40 or $45, quite a deal for a 21yo malt.  They also had the new Balvenie 25yo Single Barrel, nice presentation package but not interested.

            The holidays were very good, I had a great time.  I tried my hand in the kitchen and the results were mixed. Luckily, for some things there was very little preparation involved.  I wanted to try some new things and get some special things since it was the holidays (you're supposed to splurge right?).  I had shrimp cocktail; a smoked salmon appetizer with foie gras, white truffle oil, and caviar; clam chowder; and baked lobster.  The smoked salmon wasn't very good.  It was my first time trying caviar and foie gras and it was a pretty good experience.  The texture of the foie gras was great.  The caviar was very nice.  It was salty and tasted of the sea, reminded me of a great Islay malt.  The clam chowder was very good.  I could have done better with the lobster, I've definitely had better.  I did have a few malts, Laphroaig 15yo and Macall! an Gran Reserva.  The finish of the Laphroaig 15yo has calmed down since the JOLT.  The night was capped by family and a few friends gathered around the table enjoying a glass of Dom Perignon.  Yes, the holidays were very good.

            WARNING!  This is my first warning.  It's not about a whisky, it's a beer.  I feel compelled to tell others because nobody should drink this garbage.  It's so bad I just have to do this.  Do not drink Young's Luxury Double Chocolate Stout, it is horrible.  I love chocolate, love it, but chocolate and beer do not mix.  Whoever thought of this idea should be subjected to the punishment of being kicked in the head... repeatedly. The carbonated chocolate flavor does not go well with the beer flavor whatsoever, it is an extremely bad match.  I couldn't even finish half of it, I poured it out. And to who the hell is this crap supposed to be a luxury for I ask, Willy Wonka?

            The following tasting notes have been gathering dust for a couple months now, time to get them to the press.

            Glenlivet 18, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose: soft, sweet, dry grass, fruits, light floral, anise, toast
            Palate: oak, spice, sweetness, peaches, toffee?
            Finish: medium, oak, spice

            The nose developed nicely, I like the sweet notes.  The light floral and grass notes remind me of the spring when the flowers are blooming, what a wonderful smell.  The refinement of this malt shows in the nose.  This malt develops nicely over time, the nose reveals new layers as does the palate.  The finish is a bit lacking.  Score: 83.  Note: this is just one of several tasting notes of this malt, I just picked this set at random.

            Glenmorangie 18, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose:  sweet, floral, dry fruits, a little oak, spicy (nutmeg?)
            Palate: dry, spicy, smooth
            Finish: oaky, long

            The finish has some heat to it.  The nose is probably the most dynamic part of this malt.  I was hoping for some vanilla or chocolate like in the Port Wood Finish.  For it's age, this malt is more aggressive than I thought it would be.  I was expecting something more mellow.  It also had a good malty note in the nose.  This malt almost seems straightforward. Score: 82.  Note: once again, this is just one of several sets of tasting notes chosen at random.  It did settle down and become better after it breathed for awhile.

            Highland Park 12, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose: strong, peaty, heather, some salt
            Palate: peaty, thick but not very thick, slight hint of sour apples
            Finish: mouth filling warmth, peaty, big, long

            The finish is very impressive; big, strong, peaty, totally covers the mouth, very long.  The nose is also very good, I really like the contrast of the strength of the peat and the softness of the heather.  Its a strong malt and the heather adds an interesting dynamic to the malt.  This is very good.  Score: 89.

            Glenmorangie 10, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose: lively, up front, slightly spirity, light dry sweetness,
            butter, subtle citrus notes
            Palate: cider, sweet, syrup like thickness, butter, cream?
            Finish: cider, oak, butter, berries? lingering, warm

            The nose was a bit strong at first, I was very impressed by it.  There seems to be a good mix of elements in this malt.  I am surprised that a malt this young has the complexity that it does.  I think that this malt is pretty good.  It's tough to compare this with the 18yo.  It's somewhere along the lines of comparing the Laphroaig 10yo and 15yo, they are both good and because of that I don't know how to rate them.  So, you could pretty much flip a coin.  But of course, Glenmorangie is no Laphroaig, not by any stretch of the imagination.  Score: 80.

            Glenmorangie Madeira Wood Finish, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose: soft, sweet, licorice, hints of bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
            Palate: mild sweetness, slightly oaky, vanilla or cream?
            Finish: spicy, intensity hits quickly and levels off

            The nose is definitely interesting.  This malt would be easier to score if I had tasted madeira.  I have never tasted it before and if I did I would know what to look for.  The Madeira is a nice medium weighted malt with a very nice nose. The finish has a nice burst of intensity, stays for 8 seconds or so, tapers off, and hangs around for awhile.  The finish is definitely good. This malt is perhaps subtle, and too thin in the middle.  The 10yo has more flavor, is more balanced, and more lively, which I like.  This malt is not in the same league as the Port Wood Finish, which is superior.
Nevertheless, this is a good medium subtle malt, with a good nose and finish.
Score: 79.

            Glenmorangie Sherry Wood Finish, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose:  sherry, watermelon? menthol
            Palate: some dryness, sharp, sweet, hot
            Finish: sherry, wood, spice, long

            I've never encountered a sherry malt with a nose like this, it is very different.  I can't identify what it is.  This nose is tricky, I almost feel as if there are layers I haven't gotten to.  I almost think that I can taste or smell bourbon in it.  After 15 minutes or so the nose starts to settle down.  On the palate, it is a typical sherry malt.  The finish isn't as woody as in other sherry malts, which is a very nice change.  The palate also starts to settle down, but not the finish.
This malt makes me want to reevaluate the sherry malts that I have tasted.  I think this is a pretty good sherry malt.  Score: 79.

            Glenkeith 1983, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose: dry, floral, some sweetness, honey, grapes? anise
            Palate: sweet, fruity, barley/cereal, slightly smooth
            Finish: some spice, dry, short, barley/cereal

            This malt is better than I thought it would be.  It is somewhat similar to the Glenmorangie 10yo/Glenlivet 12yo, but more mellow than the Glenmorangie 10yo.  The finish is definitely short, it almost slips right by.  The barley/cereal/grain note is rather pleasant.  I would possibly classify this whisky as light.  For a light whisky I think it is very good.  This is a very approachable, drinkable whisky.  A longer finish and a tad bit more flavors could help this malt.  But still, it is better than I thought, a good whisky, I'm impressed.  Score: 75.

            Benriach 10, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose: sweet, cloves? anise? fruit, bittersweet chocolate
            Palate: spicy, slightly fruity, cool
            Finish: oak, medium, barley/cereal

            The nose is similar to Glenkeith.  It also has some other similarities to Glenkeith, the barley/cereal note in the finish, and the taste.  It definitely feels heavier than Glenkieth.  The best component of this malt is the nose, the middle is lacking, and the finish is decent.  It has a little more depth than Glenkeith, but Glenkeith is more rounded.  Score: 74 .

            Longmorn 15, ODB, 45% alc/vol
            Nose: sherry, sharp, dry fruits, gets softer with time, almost creamy
            Palate: fruity, sweet, barley, subtle sherry
            Finish: barley/cereal, medium, some spice, some sherry

            Shows some complexity, good flavor on the palate.  The finish is a bit short, which makes this malt less rounded than it could be.  The sharpness of the sherry in the nose is evident, which I don't particularly care for.  The sherry in the nose tones down after awhile revealing a more subtle sherry, which I find nice.  The nose definitely gets softer.  Pretty good stuff.  Score: 80.

            Strathisla 12, ODB, 43% alc/vol
            Nose:  sherry, smoke, peat, lively, rich caramel like note
            Palate: soft, smooth
            Finish: sherry lingers, medium to medium long

            Very, very good nose, pretty good balance of sherry and smoke, but the sherry tends to overpower.  The palate is nice and soft, smooth, almost silky.  With time the nose settles.  Also with time, the finish loses flavor.  This malt seems to fall apart with time.  Initially, this malt would have scored in the 80's.  I would say drink this within 20 minutes.  Score: 74.

            Macallan Gran Reserva 1979, 43% alc/vol
            Nose: sherry, soft, spice, cork or resin?
            Palate: sweet, subtle spice, oak, smooth
            Finish: oak, sherry, smooth, slightly dry, medium, spice, cork or resin?

            This stuff is really dark in the glass.  It doesn't seem to have the fullness or the luxuriousness as the standard 18yo 1979 that I have had.  The nose definitely isn't the same, missing the fruity notes.  After time, the spice becomes real subtle and shows up on the palate.  As expected, this malt is put together very well.  It is definitely well rounded and balanced, what you get in the nose you get in the palate and the finish.  Like I said before, it doesn't have the fullness, fruitiness, luxuriousness, or the voluptuousness of the standard 18yo 1979.  The standard 1979 seemed to have more flavor and depth and a better nose.  Nevertheless, this is a very good whisky, being well balanced and well rounded.  It needs a bit more flavor and the oak starts to become almost too much.  I was surprised that the sherry wasn't as overpowering as I thought it would be, goes to show the balance of this whisky.  Overall, I would consider this a medium malt.  So to sum up, the Gran Reserva is short on flavor, too much wood, missing the fruity notes, the fullness, silkiness, voluptuousness, a lesser dynamic and less rich nose when it is compared to the standard 18yo 1979.  Score: 87.

            Bowmore Legend, ODB, 40% alc/vol
            Nose: dense peat, touch of salt, wet leaves
            Palate: peaty, salt/pepper
            Finish: warm, lingering mouth coating peat

            I am surprised by this malt, it is better than I thought.  It reminds me of how much I like Islay malts, since this is the first one that I have had in quite some time (this was about a month before the JOLT).  This malt has a good peatiness to it.  I love malts like this, the peat just stands out.  Some people may think that showcasing the peat may just reduce this malt to being one dimensional.  And here is where I throw analysis right out the window.  This malt may be straightforward and one dimensional but it is to my liking.  The style is simple but I really like it.  It's not as big, bold, brash, or as sweet as the Laphroaigs or Lagavulin, but it is very good in it's own right.  The downside to this malt is that it loses some steam after it has been in the glass for awhile.  A very easy drinking whisky.  Score: 77.

            Bowmore 12, ODB, 40% alc/vol
            Nose: salt, peat, wood, trace of anise, spicy sweetness
            Palate: peaty, some smoke
            Finish: lingering peat, warm, medium to long

            The nose smells deep and thick.  Some sweetness develops after a few minutes, at first it is salty and peaty.  The finish has a good dose of peat that gathers some intensity and lingers.  This malt is just the style I like, letting the peat be the center of attention.  It may be simple, but it is good.  Nice and peaty on the palate.  A nice, rounded malt.  Score 83.

Whew!  That should do it for the report, time to go relax.

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Subject: E-Report #7 - My Malt Madness
Date: Sat, October 27 2001

            As we all know, some time ago, Johannes was struck by a serious case of malt madness.  As a result, Johannes was placed on a big ban.  And as we all know, the big ban has been broken.  Malt madness is very contagious.  I know this because I caught it.  Malt madness makes you lose control of your sensibilities, perceptions are distorted, reason is lost. The only reasoning you have when struck by malt madness is do I want it?  Yes I do.  Well it costs...I don't care.  The madness, the craziness, that is the essence of malt madness.  The following is the result of my malt madness.  Johannes thought it would be interesting to see the prices that I paid over here.  The prices are included, with a d following the ones that I got a discount on.

            Mini Glenmorangie Set ($16.99d)
            Mini Heritage Set ($12.74d)
            Macallan 12yo ($33.99)
            Macallan 18yo 1981 ($65.44d)
            Macallan 18yo 1982 ($65.44d)
            Macallan Gran Reserva 1980 ($160)
            Macallan 25yo ($169.99d)
            Aberlour A'bunadh x2 ($54.39d)
            Bunnahabhain 12yo ($30.59d)
            Glen Scotia 14yo ($39.09d)
            Glenfarclas 105 ($50.99d)
            Laphroaig 30yo ($169.99d)
            Bowmore Cask Strength x3 ($36.54d)
            Bowmore Voyage x3 ($59.49d)
            Bowmore Legend ($16.99d)
            Auchentoshan Three Wood ($42.49d)
            Arran ($33.99d)
            Balvenie 10yo ($24.99)
            Balvenie Islay Cask x5 ($75)
            Bruichladdich 10 x2 ($48d)
            Bruichladdich 15 x2 ($64d)
            OMC Port Ellen ($135)
            Springbank 10yo x2 ($42.49d)
            Springbank 12yo ($49.99)
            Springbank 21yo x3 ($84.99d)
            Ardbeg 17yo ($69.99)
            Ardbeg Provenance x3 ($499.95)

            Quite a serious case of malt madness huh?  Now some notes on the purchases.  I ordered some of these bottles from Park Avenue Liquors.  I was extremely disappointed when I got these bottles because they didn't come with their boxes.  Some people might not care but I paid a lot of money for some of them (the Balvenies, Macallan Gran Reserva, Port Ellen, one bottle of Provenance).  I ordered the other two bottles of Provenance from Wine and Liquor Depot, both came with their boxes, needless to say I was very pleased.

            In a previous update I stated that I wouldn't buy any independent bottlings.  Well, this has obviously changed as I have purchased a bottle of Douglas Laing OMC Port Ellen.  I did so because I noticed that upon my purchases of Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhain that there will be only two distilleries from Islay that I have not sampled.  I love Islay malts, and I have always wondered what Port Ellen and Caol Ila taste like.  The only way to find out is to purchase independent bottlings of them.  It is only a matter of time until I pick up a bottle of Caol Ila, and I am sure that there will be more Port Ellen to come.

            Am I going to impose a ban on myself?
Of course not!  The upcoming months look very good.  The Laphroaig CS and 40yo are coming and I am going to do whatever it takes to get them.  On top of that, the new Springbanks will be coming out early next year.  Next year looks very good indeed.

            Lastly, Johannes and I have been engaging in a little war lately. We have been trading emails back and forth taunting each other. I'm not exactly sure if it is two kids acting immature, or if it is a friendly gentlemanly one-upps-man type of game.
He broke his big ban and I retaliated with some of my own purchases.
He retaliated and I did again.
He called a cease fire, but it was a bluff.
I have a sneak attack planned, but I will not divulge.
How long will this battle last? It has definitely been fun.
We can only go so far, but how far will it go?

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Subject: E-Report #6 - Update
Date: Sun, September 30 2001

Fall is on its way and it's almost time for the Islay's to come out and play.  This fall/winter season line up looks to be rather interesting.  The current prospects are Bowmore Legend, 12, 17, Dusk, Voyage, Bunnahabhain 12, and Ardbeg 10.  I am looking very forward to these malts as I am a big lover of the Islay malts.  I have some other malts up for evaluation but it appears that my plate is very full.  I came across some mini bottles and I couldn't pass them up, so those will probably be next.
I am currently working through bottles of Glenlivet and Glenmorangie 18 and Highland Park 12.  After a round with the Glenlivet 18 I put it head to head with the 12.

Highland Park 12
Nose: soft, sweet, floral, spicy, strong peat/smoke, cocoa?
Palate: slightly salty, peaty, rich, semi-thick
Finish: lingering peat, smokey, strong, long
Comments: I was surprised at how big the finish was, the nose wouldn't lead to believe so.  It almost seems like I can smell a touch of Ardbeg in the nose.  It also has a very strong Islay-like finish.  This is a very good malt.  I think it is somewhat like a changeup, after nosing I was expecting a lighter malt with a medium fruity finish. I was definitely surprised by the amount of peat.
Score: 89

Glenlivet 18
Nose: soft, floral, sweet, a hint of peat, mellow, anise or cloves
Palate: spice, smooth, silky, oak
Finish: warm initial burst, lingering, some peat, oak, honey, medium
Comments: The nose is very pleasant.  Good balance to this malt, each component works well together.  The age shows up nicely in this malt, as is evident of the mellowness in the nose.  I think this malt ages very well.
Score: 83

Glenlivet 12 vs. Glenlivet 18 (see notes above)
Nose: more lively and up front, fruity, floral, sweet, anise or cloves
Palate: lighter than the 18, the 18 is more full in the mouth, apples, buttery
Finish: more oak than the 18, shorter, some fruit
Comments: Very similar.  The 18 has a thicker deeper nose and it is also thicker on the palate.  The finish on the 18 is longer and seems to have more taste.  I like the soft mellowness in the nose of the 18, I like that about older malts.  I seem to be finding more and more in these two malts.

Glenmorangie 18
Nose: sweet, floral, dry fruits, some oak, nutmeg, malty
Palate: dry, spicy, smooth, sweet
Finish: oaky, long
Comments: I have mixed feelings about this malt.  The first time I sampled it the finish had some heat to it.  It seemed rather aggressive as I was hoping for something more mellow.  The second time I tried it it improved rather well.  It seemed to settle down, the heat was gone, more sweetness came through, and it was more round.  Also during the second sampling it should a good balance all the through.  When I nosed the bottle I could pick up some of the "typical" Glenmorangie characteristics, being the buttery, vanilla, and nutty components.  Strangely, I could not pick them up in the glass.  For now I will give it an 82, it will definitely need to be tested again.

Until later......., Happy tastings.

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Subject: E-Report #5 - Update
Date: Fri, 24 may 2001

I'm finally back writing another piece.  The last half of the school year was rather intense, but now it is over.  I can relax a bit.  I have two requirements left for my degree and then it is time to move on.  And now for the tasting notes and some other ramblings.

Aberlour 10
Nose: soft, floral, sweet, bourbon tones? licorice
Palate: sherry
Finish: sherry, sharp, somewhat long, oak, hot
The soft and floral notes seem to disappear after 20 minutes or so, the nose becomes more hot and aggressive like the finish.  Over time, the bourbon tones develop in the nose.  I give this malt a 72.  After sharing my thoughts of Aberlour 10 with Richard Block, he offered his opinion that perhaps I am not fond of Highland sherried malts.  Richard may be right.  I thought about it and came to the conclusion that I really don't prefer young sherry finished malts.  The Macallan 18 is great, I really didn't care for the 12, and the 15 was better than the 12.  The young sherried malts are too sharp and hot for me.  I will have to have one last serious tasting session with the Aberlour 10 considering that the bottle is almost empty.

            A few weeks ago I was out to dinner and ordered Laphroaig 10.  I haven't had any Laphroaig in quite some time.  Oh the memories came back in a hurry when it was brought to the table as the smell of it hit me instantaneously.  It was as great as I remembered.  I miss that stuff, truly wonderful.

            Since I am on the subject of Islay's, I want to talk about another one, Bowmore Cask Strength.  I have been enjoying it very much, it keeps getting better and better.  I think it is a superb malt.  It is definitely a peat reeker, nose, palate, and finish.  I remember it being so peaty, which is why I really like it.  I will have another serious tasting session with it as this bottle is also almost empty.  Don't be surprised if I readjust the score on this one.  I have found that a malt is very good or exceptional if I think to myself, "I wish the bottle wasn't almost gone."  And that is the case with the Bowmore Cask Strength.

            This update is rather short, as I have had my hands full and things on the whisky front have been rather slow.  I have a few bottles that are ready to be opened and rated but I am going to have to hold off on that.  I may be going to college out of state in a couple of months and it I would feel better opening them later.  I wouldn't want to risk leakage or any other problems (the whole opening container thing).  In the waning moments of my pursuit of my degree, I had a change of heart, I didn't want to spend the rest of my life doing something with the degree I am about to earn.  So, I plan on going back, to do something that I really want to do.

            In closing, is Johannes crazy or what?  That guy has been going nuts lately with all of his new acquisitions.  He has given new meaning to malt madness.  One day Johannes may need a support group for his Maltoholism, lol.  I would be more than willing to help, and to help drink some of those bottles.
Sounds like a good time to me!

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Subject: E-Report #4 - Update
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000

      Finally the semester has ended and it is time for a break.  Hopefully I will get to have a few good nights of tasting.  I have quite a bit to cover in my update, 4 sets of tasting notes, including my first head to head, and an incident at a restaurant. So here we go.

Bowmore Cask Strength
Nose: soft, sweet, salt, caramel, smoke, dark chocolate
Body: peat, sweet, semi-thick
Finish: good initial burst of peat, lingering, long, thick
Very pleasant nose, it seemed to develop different scents with time, very impressive.  The body of this malt is almost deceiving, I'm not sure if it is thick.  It doesn't feel thick in my mouth, but as it goes down and the finish kicks in it sure does.  I would definitely consider this a complex malt with good depth.
Interesting note: There have been some very interesting e-mails amongst the members of Team Madness regarding Bowmore.  This was started when Louis sent us the explanation of his rating system.  He said that he is fond of the 12yo and Darkest, and did not like the Cask Strength.  Johannes doesn't care for the Darkest.  Davin and I had a few e-mails about the Darkest.  We both noted that both of our bottles were not very stable, sometimes it was good, other times it wasn't.  I gave the Darkest an 85 because a sherry finished Islay was new to me, and when it was good it was damn good.  I give the Cask Strength an 85 also.  I really do think it is a great single malt.  This example just goes to show that people have different tastes.

Cardhu 12
Nose: soft, light, mint, fruity, coconut, thin
Body: caramel, light, slippery
Finish: peat/mint?, fruit, short to medium
I wasn't expecting much from this malt but I was surprised.  I like the touch of coconut, as I think it really helps out this malt.  The nose is thin at times, sometimes you really have to pay attention to get it, or my nose is really bad.  The little touch of peat/mint is also a good contributor.  I give Cardhu 12 a rating of 78.

      And now for my first head to head!  I put two heavyweights to go at it, to dual for Islay supremacy, Lagavulin 16 vs. Ardbeg 17.  I sure was excited, for this was my first taste of Ardbeg.

Lagavulin 16
Nose: salty, peat, smoke, iodine, whoa dense peat! almost rich
Body: salt, sweet, big body, great balance, thick
Finish: long, big, intense, warming, peat and smoke cover the mouth

Ardbeg 17
Nose: soft, gentle, chocolate, light peat, licorice
Body: citrus, oak, thick
Finish: long, peppery, peaty, licorice

      Does the Ardbeg have what it takes to dethrone the king?  After all, when you're #1, there is only one place to go, and that is down.  Who gets the Islay bragging rights?  Who takes it?  Which distillery reigns supreme?

Lagavulin. I find the Ardbeg to be lighter than Lagavulin.  Lagavulin also has a bigger, more intense finish.  I also think Lagavulin is more full bodied than Ardbeg.  I like the chocolate in the Ardbeg.  The nose isn't that of a typical Islay.  Ardbeg is a complex malt.  The 17yo isn't as bold as Lagavulin or the Laphroaigs.  Lagavulin is big, but it is so well balanced.  It is powerful, but not overpowering.  Lastly, I was surprised by the color of Ardbeg, I've never seen an Islay that light.  As far as ratings, I give Ardbeg 17 an 89.

      Back in November I went to a nice restaurant.  They had the best single malt list that I have seen at a restaurant.  I decided to try something that I have never had, so I chose Springbank 12.  I was getting excited, I've heard so much about Springbank.  My excitement soon dissipated when it arrived tot he table.  It came in a glass that you usually get at a bar when you order something straight, I don't know the exact name of the glass but I hope you know what I am talking about.  I was so disappointed.  I knew I wasn't going to experience it properly, so I just drank it for enjoyment.  The coconut in the nose was rather pleasant.  It cost $11.50, and for that much it should come in the proper glass.  The restaurant was a classy one, but I can't believe that with the amount of money you spend that you can't get a proper glass.

      That's it for this update.  I'm looking forward to a nice purchase of malts soon.  Everyone have a Merry Christmas and a Happy, safe New Year.  I still haven't decided what I will be drinking that night, I'll figure it out later.  Back in 2001.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Subject: E-Report #3 - Update
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000

Busy, busy, busy.  School is back and I have my hands full!  On top of that, I am searching for a graduate school.  Single malts have taken the back seat.  So it may be a bit understandable that my future single malt encounters will be minimal.  Anyway, on to the good stuff.  I've included my ratings and some notes from my latest tasting.

Ratings

As I touched upon in my first update, I know that some people don't like ratings and think that they aren't worth much.  Even I will concede that ratings are not indicative of a universal agreement.  Simply, we all have our own preferences.  But nevertheless, those of us who embark on this journey, are on the quest for the best malt.  My ratings are not static, they are adjusted from tasting to tasting, or upon reflection.  So here are my ratings: 90's is excellent and should not be missed at all, 80's is above average and very good, 70's is average, 60's is something that I really don't prefer.

        Lagavulin 16                    96
        Laphroaig 15                   94
        Macallan 18                    92
        Laphroaig 10                   92
        Talisker 10                      90
        Glenmorangie Port            87
        Bowmore Darkest             85
        Bowmore 15                    82
        Glenlivet 12                     80
        Oban 14                         79
        Cragganmore 12              78
        Macallan 15                    76
        Glendronach 15                75
        Macallan 12                     74
        Balvenie Double Wood       72
        Glenkinchie 10                 65

So that's a look into my world of ratings.
Even thought they may not mean much I think it's fun to do.
And for my latest tasting:

Bowmore 15
Nose: semi-sweet, astringent, slightly peaty
Taste: a little oily, medium body
Finish: spicy, medium length, fades to lingering peat
        It retains some typical Islay characteristics.  The nose isn't as intense as other Islay's.  I was surprised by the finish, I thought it would have been longer.  It did have a nice peaty punch though.  This isn't as intense as Laphroaig or Lagavulin, or even the Darkest.  In my notes I describe it as having a medium body.  I mean this with regard to the overall picture of single malts.  But for an Islay, I don't think I would consider it medium, probably because the first Islay's that I had were the Laphroaigs and Lagavulin.  Those malts are just monstrous, and this malt doesn't have the dimensions of the Islay Giants.  I know that there are lighter Islay malts out there, it's just that I haven't had any of them.

Glenmorangie Port Wood
Nose: soft, hint of port, buttery, spicy citrus, flowery, butterscotch, vanilla?
Taste: light, sweet, good mouthfeel, vanilla again? butterscotch?
Finish: medium, traces of port
        Very interesting and very good!  I only pick up vanilla, butterscotch, and nuts in the nose occasionally.  The nose of this one is almost right up there with the Mac 18.  I wanted to taste more port, I found it to be too subtle.  But I really like this malt because there is so much going on in it, complex I would say.  And that is why it got an 87.  I love the different finishes on malts, it adds a new, refreshing dimension in my opinion.  I would like to see more port and other finishes (I know the Springbank will be here in a few years).  I also thought the finish came up a little short.

I want to touch on one last thing before I end my update, multiple bottlings vs. a single bottling.  I do think that some distilleries may put out too many bottlings and sometimes it presents a problem, I don't know which one to pick!  It's also tricky because you may have purchased a bottling from a distillery that has many products in its line and not like it.  Then when you go back to the liquor store, you stand in front of another one of their bottlings and debate.  Will it be good, or will it be a downer?  Hit or miss.  In a way, I suppose that is one thing that makes this exciting.

I also do wish that some distilleries would expand their current line up.  Wouldn't it be nice to pick up, say a 10yo or 20yo Lagavulin?  I'd love that.  But on the other side of the coin, would it be the same caliber as the 16?  I really liked how Glenlivet expanded their range.  I tried the French Oak once and I liked it.  I really would like to see a Laphroaig 21yo bottling.  I've heard that the 15 and 30 are worlds apart, night and day.  I don't think I will be able to get my hands on the 30 for quite some time.  A 21yo bottling would show a glimpse of the process of Laphroaig aging.  And of course, it would be more affordable than the 30.

That's it for now.  I hate to bring this up already but, pretty soon I'll be trying to decide what I want to uncork for New Year's.  I'm sure I'll hit that in the next update.  Enjoy your tastings.

----------------

Subject:  E-Report #2 - Interview with Derek M. Gilchrist of Bowmore
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000

First off Mr. Gilchrist, thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule to answer some of our questions. So here we go!

How long have you been at Bowmore?
I have been with Morrison Bowmore Distillers for around six years. Before that I worked for their then UK Distributor as a Brands Manager for Bowmore for another four years more.  Before that, during my career in Spirits marketing I have had experience on such brands as Macallan, Langs Whiskies, Glengoyne Malt Whisky, Isle Of Jura Malt Whisky and Mackinlay's Whiskies - some names from the past!

What is a typical day for you at the distillery?
Actually our Head Office is not situated at a distillery.  We are based in the centre of Glasgow, Scotland.  Here we have the blending & bottling facility together with all the other HO functions such as Marketing, Accounts, Production Sales etc.

What is your favorite part of the job?
It all really.  There is no one part that stands out - it is so varied.  We do have great fun designing & developing new styles and the packaging to go around them.  We have a good group of Distributors around the globe but they do keep us busy - whether developing promotional activity, advertising or even PR initiatives.  We meet with the Key Distributors regularly and discuss our central strategy for our brands and how they can implement it in their marketplace - to ensure a global strategy is in place.  Each market is at a different stage of Malt Whisky maturity and so this is quite a meeting of minds. Still, Bowmore is booming around the globe so we must all be doing something right.

What do you attribute to the boom of single malt scotch in recent years?
Availability. First through the Specialists who began to take an interest in the category and now through to the Multiples who have, in very recent years, begun to list a number of Malts.  Coupled with this, a number of good Malt Writers around the globe who have managed to explain the category - much like the wine writers have done for many more years. This coupled with good marketing. (I would say that though!)  In reality, most Malt Whisky went into the former Blended Whisky Market and so nobody had really marketed Single Malts until the past few decades.  Then somebody realised that great Single Malts were being turned into average Blended Whiskies - amazing it took them so long to work it out.

What characteristics do you think constitutes a great whisky?
Now there's a question !  and probably 'character' is the answer.  There are so many Malt Whiskies around you need something special to get to the top.  Probably our confidence comes mostly from the liquid in the bottle - before you add all the other elements which we dream up to support it, such as packaging, advertising & promotion. I/we truly believe in the product - it is such a good dram, whatever the age or finish.  This is the most crucial factor in our growth over recent years.  The Distillery team produce the great whisky and many years later we bring it to market.  But if it was not good we would not get the repeat purchase and we would not grow.  So put it down to the team at the Distillery in the first instance.  At Bowmore Distillery, on Islay, the team have more years of experience between them than possibly any other product or production facility you could name (whatever the product) and this gives us unparalleled consistency of production.

Names like Bowmore, Lagavulin, Laphroaig, and Ardbeg are considered be top notch malts, if not powerhouses. What makes Islay such a breeding for producing top caliber malts in your opinion?
In my opinion, simply because they are not 'simple' malts.  Each has a character all of its own and each, partly because of the island location, has had continuity of working practice and, crucially, the workforce over the years.  This continuity of workforce has meant that all the experience has been passed down over the generations, from father to son to grandson - and it really works when you have a product which is distilled by one generation and bottled by the next or even the next - they all take great pride in their art.  I think that many of the mainland competitors miss this continuity.  You will see when you visit the island, or perhaps I should say you will 'feel', the warm of the Islay people - in my opinion it also shines through the whiskies.

Is there any friendly competition amongst the distilleries on Islay?
Yes, but I'm not sure if we really see it as competition in the true sense of the word.  Because we all have different products there is a place for each.  Tastes vary amongst consumers - your readers will each have their own favourite - either overall or for a particular time or place.  I don't think that we fight amongst ourselves, we are all taking on the, current, market leaders and possibly the Blended whiskies, to grow our shares.  Islay whiskies have a quality all of their own and we are very proud of them all.

Why has Bowmore chosen to market such a broad range of official bottlings?
Basically, because we could. It may sound flippant but we found that much of the competition just did not have the portfolio of whiskies available to them so one way we could differentiate Bowmore from the competition was to provide a wider age / style range - a major USP for us.  Much of the competition had used their older age stocks either in their core brand or had whittled them away into Blended Whiskies over the years.  Bowmore, having been family owned for many years still had much of the 'family silver' still intact. We are, carefully, bringing this to market but still keeping much up our sleeves - for a rainy day!
In addition, I note you say 'official bottlings' and this is a good point because we believe that you only get the truly 'great' Bowmore Malts from the source.  An unofficial bottling is not really the same thing.  It has not been warehoused at Bowmore, on Islay, in the damp cellars, by the sea and does not have the same characteristics at all. It may be 'interesting' and it is probably a good dram in its own right but it is unlikely to be a great example of a true Bowmore.  Such casks could have been warehoused anywhere on mainland Scotland. They could have been badly maintained, had poor climate control or even been moved into other casks at some time, who knows?  That is why we never make comment on such whiskies - and we do get asked.  We would hate to see a consumer faced with his first Bowmore from an unofficial bottling -there are just too many variables, out with our control, which could damage the maturation process - much better paying for the real thing in my book.

Do you have any particular favorite within the Bowmore range?
Like many, I like Bowmore 17 Years Old.  But some of our more recent additions such as Darkest, Claret, Dusk and Voyage are great in their own right.

What was the actual age of Bowmore Surf?
Well, as you know, we do not declare an age on Surf.  In reality it is similar to Legend in the Domestic marketplace, around 8 Years Old. (Surf being available in the Travel Retail marketplace)

What exactly goes into the Cask Strength?
Again, there is not an age declared on Cask Strength. So the answer I give today should not be taken as gospel for all eternity.  For the case of this interview I can say that today the product is a minimum of 12-13 Years Of Age.  You basically take a Single Malt and don't reduce it to the standard strength of 40%Vol or 43% - just leave it at the nominal cask strength of 56%, simple really. Many consumers like the higher strength as it gives another aspect to the dram.

What proportion of malt is casked in first fill sherry, refill sherry,
first fill bourbon and refill bourbon in the 12 yo?
Does the proportion change in the Mariner 15 and 17?
With the 12 Years Old, 15 Years Old and 17 Years Old the recipe is similar; each is made up with (approximately) 30% Oloroso Sherry Butts, a mixture of First & Second Fill, the remaining 70% is American Ex-Bourbon Casks.  This 70% is broken down as(approximately) the first 20% being First Fill and the remaining 50% being second fill.
All of the above is approximate as all depends on individual cask quality.

It seems that Bowmore switches direction in the older bottlings. The 21 and 25 are much mellower than the Mariner. Even the 17 is in that direction. Do you select certain casks to be older bottlings? And if so, what criteria are used?
No, as I said earlier, all Bowmore Single Malt is produced in exactly the same way.  Certain casks are left aside / planned to be left aside for the older ages but, as you will know, the age on the bottle is the minimum age so a 21 Years Old could have ages higher than that in the bottle.  The reason it is mellower is because of the maturation process.  It sleeps in its cask and does change over the years - don't let anyone tell you otherwise.  You used to get many an old blender tell the tale that whisky did not change after ten or twelve years but it was just not true.  Sure it does not change if you put it into glass at ten or twelve years but leave it in a cask and the maturation continues - and it generally mellows.  The peat recedes and the various flavours of the wood come through.  Best way to see this is to pick up one of our Miniature Collection Drums.  They contain Legend, 12 years Old, 17 Years Old and 21 Years Old - try them from the youngest through to the oldest and you will see the development through the years.  A Vertical Tasting like no other.

What made Bowmore decide to use new and different styles of finishing we see in the Claret, Voyage, and Dusk bottlings?
Boy, you did get a good number of questions together!  It really started for us with Black Bowmore.  We found some old sherry casks of Bowmore with an amazing spirit inside and decided that rather than just use them in one of our standard age bottling we would bring them out as a limited edition - we knew they were extra special.  After their success and the massive prices they began to command at auction, we decided that we should attempt to produce a sherry casked Bowmore for the wider market.  To replicate Black Bowmore we would need both luck and thirty years of maturation so we took some 12 Years Old Bowmore, selected some choice sherry casks, and matured it for a further period to see what would happen.  Luck WAS on our side because when we looked at it after two years it had turned into what you now know as Bowmore Darkest.  I should point out that we did look at it several times during these two years and at only one year, although it was good, we did not think it was the great dram we were looking for.  However, when we got close to the two years additional maturation we all agreed we had a winner and designed up Darkest to bring it to market.  It is still only available in limited quantities but, because of the two year process, it does enable us to produce a Sherry Casked Bowmore in a more realistic timescale than the unique Black Bowmore - it is known as 'Son of Black Bowmore' within our team.   Claret , Dusk and Voyage have followed on from this initial maturation programme.  We selected some really unique Claret casks and carried out the same trials - again, after two additional years of 'finishing' we found the best balance and, since this time, have decided that we should always finish these whiskies for around two years - and have a programme in place to achieve this.  We think that this is the reason our Bowmore finishes have shone out from some of the competitors who we know finish their products for much lesser periods - and achieve their own results.

What is in store for Bowmore in the future?
Well, that would be telling.  All I can really say is that we have steady growth plans - and that quality whisky is what we see as the key to our growth - so no take-over of the world market in the short term just steady growth in line with our maturing stocks.

Any new bottlings in the years to come?
Perhaps some more Black Bowmore, that is supposed to be as I know it is not likely, and hey, you can always dream.? Yes there will be further new bottlings.  But, as you can imagine, we lay whiskies down today to mature and be bottled generally between ten, twenty and thirty years from today. So we are working with whiskies today many of which were distilled in the sixties, seventies and eighties. How many products or businesses work on such timescales ? There could be another Black Bowmore in the No1 Vaults - you will just have to wait and see.

On behalf of Malt Madness, thank you very much Mr. Gilchrist.
It was a pleasure.

Derek M. Gilchrist
Marketing Director - Whisky
Morrison Bowmore Distillers Limited

--------------------------

Subject:  Malt Madness E-Report #1
Wed, 2 Aug 2000

Hello everybody and welcome to my first update.

First off I would like to thank Johannes for giving me the opportunity to express my opinions on SMS,  It feels great because the scene where I live is almost nonexistent. There is a very good liquor store here that has around 250 single malts. Now I have the opportunity to interact with others on a regular basis. Now for a little background info on me...I am 22, I live in Minnesota in the US, and I am in my last year of pursuing a bachelors degree.  From there it is off to graduate school.

Anyways, I stumbled onto single malts out of curiosity.  If I remember, some of the first single malts I purchased were Cardhu, Glenkinchie, and Glenlivet 12.  Then one day I came across Islay malts.  I can't remember which I had first, Laphroaig 15 or Lagavulin.  I do remember my first Lagavulin experience.  I didn't even get the cork all the way out of the bottle and wham!  It hit me.  I removed the cork and the scent became stronger and stronger.  I said to myself, "This is gonna be real good."  I had no idea how good it was going to be.  I was instantly hooked.  Lagavulin is my favorite malt, and I get it at a good price, $35.99.  I am extremely fond of the Islay malts.  In my next update I will include my own ratings and it will be apparent how much I favor them.

Now I want to throw in my thoughts regarding ratings.  I have read quite a bit about the topic lately and I didn't know it had such a political feel.  Some people suspect that distilleries offer free whisky to writers in turn for a good review, or some sort of financial agreement.  I was perusing Michael Jackson's latest malt companion and noticed the outrageously high scores awarded to the Macallan malts.  It appears that MJ has a propensity for sherried malts.  It could be true but other sherry malts did not score as well.  Or it just may be that Macallan is MJ's favorite.  But then again, we all have our own bias for things.  Like if I wrote a book, malts that obtained scores in the 90's would be dominated by Islay malts.  All I want is the truth.  If Macallan is MJ's favorite, I want to see that in the book. You can call this MJ bashing or whatever, but we have to remember that the writers do not dictate out taste.  I respect what MJ has done for the industry as he has helped many people. 

I can recall the enthusiasm I had when I purchased my first Mac, the 12 yo which was rewarded a score of 91. That enthusiasm deteriorated rapidly as I made my way through the bottle.  I did not like it.  I found it to be too sharp in the nose and in the finish.  But to be fair, I am going to give it another shot down the road.  I was greatly disappointed, but this was before I got a good grasp on the whisky scene.  I do like Macallan but I think it is overrated.  Another reason I feel this way is because I'm not a huge fan of the sherry taste, but it is growing on me.  I will hit the Mac issue again in my E-ssignment.

Thanks for reading, until next time.

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